The luxury jewellery designer Ananya talks us through about Ananya as a brand and unveils her new collection "The Scatter" as well as her inspiration and plans. Born into a family deeply rooted in the fashion industry, the winner of Suffragettes Design Award, Ananya began to develop an ideology about beauty as a powerful energy, and expressive vibration and a sensual awareness that resonates with the essence of life. Ananya teaches to experience the world of gems and precious stones by her jewels, the knowledge to bring the right energies that help enhance one’s state of being.
Find out our discussion with Ananya below and the brand's upcoming plans;
Jewellery Pursuer: Who's Ananya and how did you start your eponymous label?
Ananya: Ananya translates into ‘unique’ in Hindi, and this is reflected in both our designs and the brand’s overarching mission: to create jewellery that has no equivalent: in beauty,
craftsmanship and meaning.
After graduating from Central Saint Martins and GIA, I founded Ananya with a wish to celebrate the history and emotional value that jewellery carries. For me, behind every piece of jewellery is a story and I seek to remind my jewellery's wearers of this and celebrate it to the full.
Each design is a reverent and respectful interpretation of Indian spiritual heritage and values, expressed through a contemporary design that crosses geographical borders and cultural boundaries.
The Mogra collection earrings, Ananya.
JP: Please talk us through your sculptural approach to your collection and yielding immaculately crafted objects.
A: My brand's ethos is connected to the fact that jewellery has a spiritual connection to the wearer. I find inspiration around me and always keep a sketchbook or a visual diary on me to catch these inspirations. I love working with gemstones and combining different materials to create contrast, layer and structure. My pieces are a delicate combination of vision, form, structure and material. It starts with the illustration, moves to the reader and then we look to source and cut the materials. The process can be lengthy however having the end creation in hand, there is no other feeling like it.
I believe that the design, craftsmanship and materials used to make each piece are just one part of the story that can only be completed by its relationship with the wearer.
JP: What are your sources of inspiration?
A: I am lucky to have studios in Chennai, London and Miami which allows me to get creative wherever, whenever. I have found that new ideas and creations can come to me when I least expect it. Additionally, travel is a great source of inspiration so having these studios allows me to design no matter where I am. Growing up in India jewellery has always carried great cultural and symbolic value. I have attended gemstone healing classes which always inspires how I use and combine gemstones.
The Nazar Talisman, The colour black combined with other gemstones carries great significance according to Indian philosophical traditions. Black is believed to ward off the negative energy of ‘Nazar’ or the ‘evil eye’, while in Vedic and Buddhist philosophy green, blue for example is associated with healing and protection.
JP: How do you source your materials and gemstones?
A: Gemstones are so magical for me because of their colour with emeralds, morganites and tourmalines amongst my favourites. I love working with inlays to create texture and dimension especially Mother of Pearl which is particularly prominent in the Mogra collection.
My sourcing process is unique to each of my designs. I believe honesty is key in the process as well as understanding the origin and certifying my gemstones and thus I have long standing relationships with gemstone experts who support me with the entire sourcing process. I have been lucky enough at times to work from the rough and this is when it gets really exciting for me.
The Mogra/Jasmin Flower. This collection distils the visual and spiritual form of the Jasmine flower (also known as Mogra in Hindi) as a symbol of unity and divine hope. Traditionally used to adorn women to celebrate their femininity as goddesses, in Southern India jasmine garlands are fastened in hair to symbolise good fortune.
JP: What's your most recent collection about?
A: My newest collection is the Scatter. The fluidity and the forms in the collection are inspired by the concept of metaphysical energy and movements. The designs represent the movement of energy between the root and the crown chakras. The collection uses diamonds, black diamonds, emeralds, rubies and blue sapphires with each coloured gemstone epitomising the flow of energy from the ground up.
My newest collection is the Scatter. The fluidity and the forms in the collection are inspired by the concept of metaphysical energy and movements. The designs represent the movement of energy between the root and the crown chakras. The collection uses diamonds, black diamonds, emeralds, rubies and blue sapphires with each coloured gemstone epitomising the flow of energy from the ground up.
Ananya The Scatter jewellery pieces. The Scatter is the movement of energy from the root and crown chakras, with each coloured gemstone epitomising the flow of energy from the ground up.
JP: How would you define the creative atmosphere of India?
A: India and jewellery, or design for that matter, have always been synonymous with each other. They have a long history. Growing up in a culture that celebrates every milestone or occasion with a symbolic token, jewellery has huge significance. It is a fascinating experience to travel to ateliers in Jaipur where craftsmanship has been passed down from generation to generation, where colour techniques are inspiring; there is creativity around every corner. Furthermore, this does not end at jewellery but also applies to textiles, handlooms, architecture. India has always been bubbling with creativity.
JP: Lastly, what did this pause teach you?
A: I have found this pause a wholesome experience. It has taught me to slow down, enjoy quality time with my family and take the opportunity to expand my creativity. I regularly partake in pilates classes and chakra healing yoga with my Mum and these moments are ones I will treasure. A highlight has been my time spent with my designing process and gemstone research, which really got my creative juices flowing.