Timeless Elegance and Exceptional Savoir Faire
Buccellati’s brand new pieces for the virtual Haute Couture 2021 catwalks are nothing if not show-stopping. This year Buccellati’s offering of nine high jewellery pieces is based on their classic honeycomb and open-work patterns showcased with a very contemporary verve. The House prides itself on its unstinting dedication to excellence in savoir faire, the use of extraordinary gems and on carving white and yellow gold in delicate, lace-like patterns. The jewellery pieces in the Haute Couture 2021 collection have all been handcrafted using the same traditional goldsmithing techniques as were employed in 1919, the year the Maison was established, while still incorporating the style of today. Known for his exquisite taste and pioneering vision for jewellery, Andrea Buccellati, Creative Director at Buccellati, oversaw the collection down to its tiniest details and the results are superlative.
The highlight of this collection, to my eyes, is the “Polvere di Luna” (Moon Powder) set comprising of a light, openwork bib necklace and matching cocktail pendant earrings. Brilliant cut diamonds are set in groups of sculpted white gold leaves and griffe mountings of yellow gold are set with rose-cut diamonds. Just the name is enough to conjure up an image of shimmering beauty but these pieces go even beyond. The fluid mix of white and yellow gold, so quintessentially Buccellati, makes this set timeless and yet very modern.
“Polvere di Luna” (Moon Powder) necklace 212 round brilliant-cut diamonds cts. 7,22 and 92 rose-cut diamonds cts. 10,74 and matching cocktail pendant earrings, 54 rose-cut diamonds cts. 4,87, 124 round brilliant-cut diamonds cts. 2,51
The “Polvere di Luna” flexible bracelet is a work of art in itself. While it can be paired with "Polvere di Luna" necklace and earrings, it can also be a stand alone piece. The flexible bracelet has the same openwork white gold leaves’ motif, adorned with brilliant cut and rose-cut diamonds, set in yellow gold griffe mountings. However, the craftsmanship here goes even further. The bracelet literally drapes around the wrist, with an almost silk-like feel to its contours, the result of hours upon hours of very precise and skilled craftsmanship.
Griffe mountings in yellow gold, “rigato” engraved, set with rose-cut diamonds. Shiny beads in yellow gold.
200 round brilliant-cut diamonds cts. 3,29 80 rose-cut diamonds cts. 9,82
The two cocktail rings in this collection are just as striking. Bucellati is renowned for its spectacular rings and we are not disappointed here. The “Passione” ring shows off a large, faceted, deep-pink tourmaline, surrounded by delicate leaves of diamond-pavé white gold.The plummy tourmaline set against white gold and diamonds really does justice to the name of this piece. The “Monto Bianco” ring had my heart beating just a little faster. A lustrous white pearl is set like a mountain atop the ring. With a bezel of diamond-pavé geometric pattern, which repeats on the shank, this ring is simply magnificent.
The “Passione” ring, Sections in white gold. Scalar bombé stem in white gold, with central section in yellow gold, modeled with leaves running after each other. 1 faceted tourmaline cts. 10,72 124 round brilliant-cut diamonds cts. 1,84. The Monte Bianco Cocktail Ring, on the rear part, the decorations are ribbon-modeled. 82 round brilliant-cut diamonds cts. 0,52 1 round pearl cts. 24,36
Of course, no Buccellati collection is complete without its iconic cuff bracelets and here we have two, both exquisite in their own distinct ways. The “Honey Heart” bracelet has been made in the bombé style and centres on open-work honey-comb rosettes, set with sparkling brilliant-cut diamonds. The “Ortensia” cuff bracelet is an homage to hydrangeas. Set with sugarloaf cabochon blue sapphires at the centre of openwork yellow gold and diamond floral rosettes, this brushed white gold cuff has an almost ethereal feel to it.
Ortensia Band width cms. 3,50. 440 rose-cut diamonds cts. 1,83 1 faceted sapphire cts. 3,02 2 oval cabochon sapphires cts. 0,95. The “Honey Heart” bracelet The surface is dotted by rhomboidal elements in white gold and diamonds, laterally “rigato” engraved. Band width cms. 3,50. 103 round brilliant-cut diamonds cts. 1,87
The “Aubade” and “Foglie Imperiali” are two other, one of a kind, cocktail pendant earrings in this collection and these shoulder dusters are eye-catching as well as very glamourous. The “Aubade” are a delight of design and colour. The leaf motif can be seen again in these earrings, but the highlight of deep, red rubies against white diamonds and yellow gold, creates a contrast that is both beguiling and attractive. The “Foglie Imperiali” earrings, by contrast have a monochromatic palette of white diamonds on white gold. With an overall design reminiscent of the laurel crowns worn by royalty, the openwork honeycomb motif in these earrings give them a light and regal touch.
The “Aubade”, Shiny beads in yellow gold. A white gold leaf-modeled bezels renders the pendant part detachable. 126 round brilliant-cut diamonds cts. 6,03 4 oval faceted rubies cts. 2,73. “Foglie Imperiali” Shiny beads in white gold. 212 round brilliant-cut diamonds cts. 3,27.
Buccellati High Jewellery is known the world over for its exquisite jewels and superb craftsmanship. In their Haute Couture 2021 jewellery collection, these two hallmarks of the Maison make each piece a work of jewelled art.