When designers create extraordinary works of fine jewellery, it's easy to overlook the intricate journey behind the materials they use. Those flawless, vibrant gemstones and metals don't simply appear on their workbenches! Sourcing the ideal elements—be it the perfect hue, size, or form—is an art in itself. Now imagine blending these technical aspects with an intuitive sense of market trends and the foresight to predict what’s set to become the "next big thing."
One designer who excels in this balancing act is Mirco Milesi. Renowned for his sculptural approach to jewellery, he transforms metals and minerals into wearable art. His pieces, characterized by striking forms and innovative craftsmanship, are firmly on my radar. Let’s explore his latest collections and gain insights into his creative process, as well as what’s currently shaping the world of sculptural jewellery.
When bold creativity meets impeccable craftsmanship, the result is the signature work of Swiss jewellery artist Mirco Milesi. Rooted in the technical traditions of Vallée de Joux and refined through his experience at renowned jewellery and watchmaking ateliers, Mirco has forged a brand that defies convention. His creations are not just jewellery but sculptural statements designed for personalities unafraid to embrace their individuality.
Mirco’s work embodies a duality that balances contrasts: geometry with asymmetry, balance with imbalance, and raw materials with polished elegance. His use of noble metals like gold, silver, and platinum—paired with enigmatic stones like black diamonds and protective tourmalines—creates ancient and fiercely modern designs.
If you’ve ever binged the first season of a favourite show and eagerly awaited the second, you’ll understand how I feel about discovering Mirco Milesi's sculptural masterpieces. My first encounter with his work was at Milan Jewellery Week, where he deservedly won an award, and I’ve been captivated ever since. His creations evolve, each collection revealing new dimensions of his artistic vision. Mirco’s ability to sculpt metals into wearable art feels like a crescendo—moments of brilliance achieved with bold designs and intricate craftsmanship. His superpower? Transforming raw materials into avant-garde forms that seem to anticipate the next wave of trends in contemporary jewellery. Whether showcased at prestigious events or gracing collectors’ hands, his work never fails to impress.
Let’s start with a breathtaking Crystal Pendant in 18k white gold, featuring cushion-cut tanzanite surrounded by a combination of white and black diamonds. Suspended on a sleek chain, this design embodies elegance and balance, much like the Starline ring, which is crafted in 18k white gold. This stunning piece is adorned with 0.95 carats of diamonds and enhanced by three striking indigolite tourmaline crystals.
The designer reflects on these creations and gravitates towards designs where less is more. For example, he has opted for minimal settings, like lighter chains or sleek designs, to let the centre stones and unique materials truly shine. This understated luxury emphasizes the beauty of the gemstones while embracing modernity.
In terms of design style, Mirco Milesi’s signature sculptural aesthetic shines through, especially in the way geometric elements are used to connect the pieces seamlessly. The interplay of textures and forms elevates this collection, making it one to watch as it continues to evolve.
Crystal d’Eau Ring
Elsewhere in the pieces, the Crystal D'eau ring stands out with its captivating design. Featuring two vibrant green and pink tourmalines nestled in 18k white gold and framed by a sparkling mix of white and black diamonds, it’s a true showstopper. Another highlight is the pair of earrings, showcasing perfect symmetry with bold gemstones and intricate detailing.
In terms of design style, Mirco Milesi’s signature sculptural aesthetic shines through, especially in the way geometric elements are used to connect the pieces seamlessly. The interplay of textures and forms elevates this collection, making it one to watch as it continues to evolve.
Mirco's Starline Ring
One of the most captivating qualities of tourmaline is its remarkable chromatic variety, a feature beautifully highlighted in Mirco Milesi's Starline Ring. This line focuses on the vibrant hues of indigolite tourmaline, celebrated for its striking blue-green tones. In the Starline ring, three indigolite crystals are masterfully set in 18k white gold and surrounded by 0.95 carats of sparkling diamonds. The design reflects a harmonious blend of modern sophistication and timeless elegance.
Blue-green tones are becoming increasingly popular in jewellery right now. These tourmalines, with their unique vibrancy, are perfect heirloom pieces. Mirco aimed to create designs that combine classic elements with a contemporary edge, making them versatile for every generation. In the daylight, the Starline ring truly comes to life, with the tourmaline crystals radiating a mesmerizing intensity that captures attention effortlessly.
Pearl Jewels with Tahitian and South Sea Pearls
Mirco’s inspiration is rooted in nature, the elements, architecture, and design. His intuitive process begins with raw materials, shaping them into unexpected forms without the confines of sketches. The result is jewellery that feels alive, breathing new life into materials while remaining unapologetically rebellious.
Mirco Milesi’s pearl jewellery celebrates the unparalleled elegance and mystique of the ocean's treasures. Each design harmonizes the natural allure of pearls with the brilliance of fine craftsmanship. The Duality ring, crafted in 18k white gold, features the contrast of a luminous South Sea pearl and a dark, enigmatic Tahitian pearl, accented with 0.45 ct diamonds—a striking symbol of balance and harmony. The Yellow Moon ring in 18k yellow gold showcases a radiant South Sea pearl surrounded by 0.43 ct diamonds, evoking the warm glow of moonlight. The Fleur de Tahiti ring captures the exotic beauty of the tropics, with a Tahitian pearl nestled in 18k white gold and adorned with 1.3 ct diamonds, reminiscent of a blossoming flower. Mirco’s intuitive approach transforms pearls into modern masterpieces, bridging nature’s elegance with architectural precision in every design.
The Venum Collection
Mirco Milesi’s silver jewellery epitomizes the fusion of artistry and innovation, pushing the boundaries of design to create timeless pieces that captivate the imagination. The Venum Collection, a striking representation of rebirth and renewal, reflects his mastery of sculptural aesthetics and bespoke craftsmanship. Each piece, such as the blackened silver pendant adorned with vibrant green tourmaline crystals and the enigmatic allure of black diamond eyes, embodies a sense of mystery and elegance. Mirco’s work is more than jewellery—it’s wearable art that resonates deeply with the wearer, transforming personal aspirations into tangible, breathtaking designs.
Mirco invites clients to witness the artistry behind each piece in his Lausanne atelier, located in the vibrant Quartier du Flon. Whether crafting unique commissions, rejuvenating inherited jewellery, or shaping bold new collections, his process is one of transformation. Every piece tells a story, preserving its emotional essence while reimagining its aesthetic form.
Discover more of Mirco Milesi’s audacious creations on Instagram at @mircomilesi_creations. Let his sculptural masterpieces inspire you to redefine how jewellery reflects your individuality.
Author: Shohista Turdiyeva
We thank Mirco Milesi for sponsoring this article.
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